Caernarfon – castle

History

   The first medieval timber castle in Caernarfon was erected at the end of the 11th century by the Norman invaders who conquered the territory of North Wales. It was created on the initiative of Hugh d’Avranches, Earl of Chester, as a motte and bailey structure. The Welsh regained Gwynedd along with the castle at Caernarfon in 1115. It came into possession of the Welsh princes, it is known that they stayed in it from time to time Llywelyn the Great, and later Llywelyn ap Gruffudd.
  
After the outbreak of the Anglo – Welsh war in 1282, Edward’s army marched through all of North Wales, gaining further resistance points and by 1283 defeating the Welsh leader Dafydd ap Gruffydd. Shortly thereafter, Edward ordered to build the castles in Caernarfon, Conwy and Harlech to confirm English domination. Of these, Caernarfon become the most important seat, administrative center of the English Crown for North Wales, the capital of the new county i
n which justicar of North Wales was to reside, chief minister in the west of the kingdom.
   Work on the royal castle at Caernarfon began in 1283. The initial phase of construction, which lasted until 1292, focused on the western, southern and eastern parts of the stronghold. The northern part was initially protected by a large ditch, as well as the town walls, erected along with the castle. Hundreds of workers were working on the construction, digging the moats and foundations of the castle. When the construction began to enter the town, the houses were removed to allow further work. Residents were compensated only after three years. The construction was visited by the king and his wife, for whom timber, temporary buildings were erected. The royal couple looked after the work for about a month and reappeared in Caernarfon for Easter the following year. According to tradition, the successor of the throne, Edward II, was than born in the castle, from 1301 entitled as the Prince of Wales. Until 1292, a huge sum of 12,000 pounds was spent on the work at the castle.

   In 1294, the Welsh uprising of Madog ap Llywelyn broke out. Because Caernarfon was the most important center in Gwynedd and a symbol of English power, it became one of the targets of the rebels. The forces of Madog took over the town in September 1294, also an unfinished castle with temporary timber fortifications was conquered. In the summer of 1295, the English returned to Caernarfon and began to rebuild, but the town walls were a priority. The works were supervised by the Edward I chief architect, James of Saint George, next the construction supervision was taken by the mason master Walter from Hereford. By the end of 1301, another 4.5 thousand pounds were spent, this time concentrating on the northern part of the castle. In 1301 there was a three-year break in works, probably caused by the war with Scotland, but as early as 1304 construction was resumed. Walter died in 1309, and his master of the masonry position was taken over by a direct subordinate, Henry Ellerton. The buildingwas continued until 1330, spending a total of 20,000 to 25,000 pounds for the castle and town walls. This sum was huge and it overshadowed expenses on such large castles as in Dover or Château Gaillard. Despite this, many of the plans have never been implemented. The inner sides of the King’s Gate and the Queen’s Gate remained unfinished, as did the inner buildings in the wards of the castle.

   Over the next two centuries, the castle was permanently garrisoned, and Caernarfon was considered the capital of North Wales. Tensions between the Welsh and English conquerors led to the outbreak of Owain Glyndŵr’s uprising in the years 1400-1415. The town and the castle were besieged in 1401, and in November of the same year, the unresolved Battle of Tuthill took place nearby. In 1403 and 1404, Caernarfon was again besieged by the Welsh army, with the support of the French forces, but the fortifications of the castle and the town were able to fight off the attackers. At that time, the English garrison of the castle supposedly had about thirty people.
  
The accession of the Tudor dynasty to the English throne in 1485 initiated a change in the way in which Wales was treated. The Tudors were of Welsh descent, and their governments soften hostility between the Welshmen and the English. As a result, the role of the Caernarfon castle was weakened and it fell into neglect. At the beginning of the 17th century, most of the towers and rooms was devoid of roofing, and all of the more valuable pieces of equipment were stolen. Despite the damages, the defensive elements were so good that during the English Civil War the castle was garrisoned by royalists. Caernarfon was besieged three times during the war. In 1646, the castle constable was John Byron, who surrendered the stronghold to the forces of the Parliament. It was the last military event related to the castle. Although in 1660 it was ordered to slighting together with the town walls, the work was, fortunately, interrupted, and perhaps it never even began. Despite the survival, the state of the building deteriorated gradually until the 19th century. It was not until the 70s of the 19th century, that government-funded repairs began. The works were supervised by Llewellyn Turner, who in a few cases was controversially rebuilding the castle, instead of preserving its existing stonework. The stairs, battlements and roofs have been renovated, and the moat north of the castle has been cleared of post medieval buildings.

Architecture

   The castle was located on the banks of the Menai Strait, separating the island of Anglesey from the Welsh mainland, on a peninsula formed by the mouth of the Seiont River and a smaller brook. The plan of the Edward I stronghold was largely dictated by the terrain, including the incorporation of the mound of the earlier Norman castle. Finally, a narrow building in the shape similar to eight was erected, which was divided into two parts: the lower ward in the west and the upper ward in the east, formed by short and simple curtains of the perimeter walls. The division was to be confirmed by a number of internal buildings, but they were never completed. The outer zone of defense was a wide ditch separating the castle from the town and from the short eastern side. In two places, in the north-west and north-east, a town wall was led through the ditch with which the castle fortifications were directly connected.
   The defensive walls were strengthened by seven polygonal, partly protruding beyond the perimeter of the walls, main towers and two smaller towers from which flank fire could be fired. Their tops were crowned (similarly to perimeter walls) with a battlement with a arrowlits pierced in every second merlon. Most of the northern towers had three floors and basements. The most powerful of them was the Eagle Tower on the west side, topped with three polygonal turrets, which were once decorated by statues of eagles. The tower housed large chambers, probably originally intended for Sir Otto de Grandson, the first Justiciar of North Wales. The basement was a kind of vestibule, which, after defeating the portcullis and double doors, could be reached by anyone arriving in Caernarfon by water. Like the upper floors, it had the form of a decagon with internal dimensions of 9 x 10.5 meters. It was accessible via the stairs from the courtyard level and also connected to the probably never completed ground floor of building at the northern curtain of the wall (the planned construction is evidenced by a fireplace placed in the wall). The only light in the tower’s basement was provided by a deep single arrowslit from a niche which passage led to the latrine. All this was placed in the tower’s wall, up to 5.4 meters thick. Also available from the courtyard level, the ground floor room was heated by a fireplace and topped with a wooden ceiling. You could go from it to a small octagonal room, probably a private chapel. The main, better lit chamber was on the first floor. It also had a passage to another octagonal chapel with a piscina and to a rectangular chamber in the wall thickness on the north side, mistakenly identified as the birthplace of King Edward’s son. The top floor was accessible by a cylindrical staircase, heated by a fireplace and illuminated by a pair of two-light windows. Next to it were two rectangular rooms in the wall thickness on the north and north-east sides and a passage on the south side to the latrine.

   To the east of the Eagle Tower, a Well Tower was erected, which, as the name suggests, housed a castle well of a depth of 15 meters. Two entrances to the tower were at the courtyard level: one led to the basement and the other to the ground floor. There, near the well, a stone tank was placed, into which water was poured from the well, which then was fed into the castle kitchen through channels in the thickness of the wall. At the basement level, the tower had a water gate through which supplies to the castle could be provided from the moat. It was secured by two doors, a portcullis and so-called murder holes. The upper floors were heated with fireplaces, each was also equipped with a latrine accessible through a corridor placed in the thickness of the wall. From the second floor, the portal led to a defensive walkway in the crown of the walls, leading to the Eagle Tower in the west and the King’s Gate on the opposite side.
   Further east between the Well Tower and the King’s Gate are the foundations of the kitchen. Traces of vaulting brackets and walls foundations indicate that it was planned to be built entirely of stone. In its western part there were two places for copper boilers with hearths below. The toothing in the wall next to show that it was planned to build a large chimney, and the niche in the wall could be used for storing dishes and food. Located next to it, a small hole was the end of the channel through which water flowed directly from the tank in the Well Tower. Another hole was intended for the outflow of waste. In the central part of the north wall of the kitchen there was another sink with a channel for clean water and sewage outflow. It were placed in the second room of the kitchen, equipped with a large, transversely located hearth and connected to the western room through a narrow passage in the thickness of the northern wall. The eastern part of the wing was a smaller room, connected by a passage in the wall with a residential first floor and rooms of the King’s Gate.
   Approximately in the middle of the northern fortifications of the castle there was a huge, but never finished, King’s Gate leading to the town. It was a typical building at the time with a gate passage between two polygonal, connected towers. If it was to be completed, it would be necessary to overcome the drawbridge, five doors and as many as six portcullises, and go through a sharp right turn into a narrower passage leading through the second drawbridge to the lower ward. Additional protection for this gateway was provided by loop holes located both from the gate’s front, in the side walls of the passage and in the ceiling (so-called murder holes). On the first floor above the main gate passage, there was a room with a double stone piscina in the eastern wall, which despite two portcullises in it, probably served as a chapel. A corridor leading from it in the thickness of the wall connected to the latrine on the left. Six slotted arrowslits (three in each gate tower) were pierced in its walls, with their forked arrangement allowing firing by twice as many shooters. Above the chapel and two polygonal rooms in the towers, it was planned to build a large chamber with a length of 18 meters. In addition to slotted arrowslits, its lighting was to be provided by two large two-light ogival windows.

   The Granary Tower flanked the east side of the King’s Gate, behind which the North-East Tower stood. It had only two floors and, exceptionally, arrowslits also located in the battlement of the turret crowning it. From the south side of the curtain, defensive walkways in the thickness of the wall surrounded the northern part of the tower, but here they ended and were no longer led to the northern walls of the castle. This was due to the rise of this part of the castle in the later construction stage after 1295, when defensive wall-walks were planned only in the crown of the walls. The Granary Tower was similar to the Well Tower. It received an octagonal shape, four floors and a culmination in the form of a polygonal turret. At the ground floor there was a passage hidden in the wall thickness that led to the chamber with the well. At the level of the second floor of the tower a similar arrangement of arrowslits was used as in the King’s Gate, with a fork allowing firing three shooters from one external hole.
   To the south of the North-East Tower in the curtain of the wall, a small watchtower was placed with holes in the battlement for fixing wooden shields for crossbowmen, and then the Queen’s Gate from which, after the high bridge, it was possible to get directly to suburban areas. It was located on a small hill, which is a remnant of the 11th-century mound of the first Norman castle, which probably resulted in giving the unusual external facade of the gatehouse. Originally, a stone ramp and a drawbridge led to it, closing the centrally located gate passage. Inside it was placed a pit into which the bridge counterweight was lowered when it was raised. Protection was also provided by a portcullis and six murder holes in the vault, and further doors and portcullis were planned to be placed in the unrealized part of the gate on the courtyard side. At the ground floor level, each of the two gate towers contained irregular chambers for guards or gatekeepers, while on the first floor there was a link of defensive galleries on the north and south walls.
   In the south-eastern part a smaller Cistern Tower was erected, with a rain-water tank carved in stone on the roof. Its excess was drained through channels in the thickness of the walls to the outlet at the Queen’s Gate. On the west side a Black Tower was erected, which, like the previous one, did not have an entrance from the courtyard level. Only two small, ten-sided rooms with access to several smaller chambers were placed in it. The lower height was caused by the construction of a former Norman castle mound. A spiral staircase in the northwestern part of the tower connected the floors and provided access to the roof and to the turret crowning it. Another opening with stairs was placed on the roof, the only one around the castle, which may indicate that it was originally planned to raise the tower by one more floor.

   The defense of the southern, central section was provided by the Chamberlain Tower (Treasury Tower), crowned with a reconstructed turret and having the only surviving chimney. Slightly smaller than the main towers of the castle, it contained three octagonal rooms with a diameter of 6.7 meters and smaller rectangular chambers, of which the one on the first floor was a chapel. On the first and second floor, in the thickness of the wall from the outside (southern side), a passage circled it ensuring uninterrupted communication of defensive galleries along most of the perimeter of the castle walls. A slight collapse in the middle of the wall leading to the Black Tower was caused by crossing the line, where once was the ditch of the original Norman castle.
   West of the Chamberlain Tower was the Queen’s Tower, in the Middle Ages called the Banner’s Tower. It was connected by defensive walkways on two levels with the Eagle Tower, with the lower one planned to be placed in the thickness of the curtain wall. In the opposite direction you could get by the wall-walk in the crown of the wall and the lower defensive gallery up to the Queen’s Gate. Both towers, Eagle and Queen, had a similar arrangement and thickness of the walls, but the Queen’s Tower had only three floors. A spiral staircase was built in its western part, connecting all floors with the level of the courtyard and protruding in the form of a polygonal turret high above the roof level of the tower. At its top was the base for the banner originally installed there. Each of the main chambers of the tower was equipped with smaller, auxiliary rooms hidden in the thickness of the wall, the highest of which was probably a chapel.
   While the defensive walls and towers have survived largely intact, all the buildings inside the castle were destroyed or never completed. The royal quarters were to be located in the upper ward, the lower one housed utility rooms, among others kitchens and a great hall. It was adjacent to the southern wall and was 30.5 meters long. The great halls were places for meetings, meeting of guests and feasts. If Caernarfon was completed as planned, it would be able to accommodate several hundred people. The main table of the ruler was probably to be placed on the west side, while separated by partition walls pantries on the east side. There stairs led down to a side water postern gate. The great hall was directly connected to the Chamberlain Tower in the south-east corner.
   Caernarfon Castle differs from other Edwardian castles in Wales by the use of colored stones arranged in stripes and polygonal rather than cylindrical towers. Some historians speculate that this is an ideological reference to the walls of Constantinople. The resemblance to the symbol of the power of the Byzantine Empire was to certify the strength and authority of the founder of the castle.

Current state

   The Caernarfon Castle is one of the best preserved medieval strongholds, not only in Wales but in the whole of Europe. Currently, the castle is under the care of the Cadw government agenda, responsible for the preservation and care of historic buildings in Wales. In 1986, Caernarfon was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List under the “Castles and city walls of King Edward in Gwynedd” in recognition of its importance. Unfortunately, the castle in 2015 met with misery in the form of a new glass pavilion in the ward, which disfigures historic walls. The castle houses the Museum of the Royal Fusilier Regiment.

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bibliography:
Gravett C.,  The Castles of Edward I in Wales 1277-1307, Oxford 2007.

Kenyon J., The medieval castles of Wales, Cardiff 2010.
Taylor A. J., Caernarfon Castle, Cardiff 2004.

Taylor A. J., The Welsh castles of Edward I, London 1986.
Website castlesfortsbattles.co.uk, Caernarfon Castle.